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Saturday 23 August 2008

3 pearls in the Indian ocean

3 jewels in a turquoise setting, a well-deserved term to describe Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno et Gili Air. But we almost never set foot on this shangri-la. Although there is an express shuttle between Bali and the biggest of the 3 islands – Gili Trawangan –, we opted for the cheap solution taking the ferry. And to complicate things, we all handle by ourselves: ferry from Padang Bay, chaotic arrival in the Mafia-like harbour of Lembar where arranging a road transport to the Bengsal pier – starting point towards the Gili islands – will go with a great dose of irritation. The deserved arrival in Bengsal nearly sounds the end of the expedition; only 45 minutes left by boat and we finally land in Trawangan. But trouble is not finished yet. To end this unpleasant day, we spend one hour looking for an accommodation to finally find a room 3 times more expensive than in Bali for a lower quality. Can't wait for tomorrow to forget all of that!
The night erases the yesterday inconvenience, we realize the magic of this island. A greenery disc wholly encircled by a blond-sand ring. And an ever-more-incredible wealth hides a few meters away from the shore: an unforgettable coral reef.

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We spend the main part of the day underwater. Only equipped with a mask and a snorkel, we let ourselves drift by the current. And each dive displays its share of miraculous visual catches. Although we change island or country, the colourful inhabitants of the Indian Ocean carry on their captivating submarine waltz. But today, an heroine outshines the other reef dwellers. The green turtle robs the limelight from the unicorn- and butterfly-fish. It bestows a constant show. We follow each turtle which flies in the expanse of water. A slow and mind-blowing dance. Swimming beyond the time for some terrestrial mammals who appreciate the joys of another element. Our companion flies away into the blurred blue of the ocean depths. Our memory extends this smooth and slow flight.
Gili is one of the numerous Indonesian jewels, because Indonesia is packed with islands watered by turquoise water and stuffed with fantastic creatures. So many paradises for neophyte or advanced divers. As for me, I fill in my schedule for some future underwater odysseys.

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Tuesday 19 August 2008

the breathtaking wreck of the Libery

The steep slopes of the mount Batur push us away towards the east of the island. Our way stops when the ocean starts, somewhere not far from Amen, in the small hamlet of Jemeluk. The tourist development broke through the calmness of the fishermen villages which stretch out along the coast. Because of a ship: the Liberty that ran aground at less than 50 meters from the pebble beach of Tulamben. An artificial reef that coral fauna and flora quickly adopt for a breathtaking result. Red gorgons and fire corals proudly dance on the shapeless metallic remnants. Sometimes tinsel-decorated Christmas tree and sometimes heap of life-shining ferrous remains. Some flipper-kicks further, a diffuse light spreads through the gaping holes of the ship. We swim into what the lower deck formerly was. Wide-eyed, we get each drop of life. Endless navigation between the imposing size of the smashed-up metal sheets and the delicate and chiseled details of the reef life.
My underwater wonder is so great I succeed in convincing my family to stay an extra day and dip into the big blue. Introduction to scuba diving into the swimming pool of the hotel then departure for the wreck. Most of them feel the fear of the unknown mixed with a ferocious urge of swimming with the inhabitants of the world of silence. Each one will keep in mind an indelible memory of what was their first dive. And even those for who it's not their first bathing with bottles, the enthusiasm is the same. Maravilloso ! Increible ! Will be the two first words which will say Spanish partner immediately getting out of the water.

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Wednesday 6 August 2008

We dip again into the 2 oceans

An adventure ends, our great loop in southern Africa stops at Cape town, a city we left almost 2 months before. We get to the « 2 oceans » aquarium, in order to dip again into the memory of this sumptuous underwater creatures we already met for the most part. Between Indian and Atlantic Ocean. We want to enjoy our peregrinations to the very last drop.
Then, the time to part comes, Christophe goes back to Paris and I carry on my trip. A radical change of culture and continent. After a short stop at Kuala Lumpur, I will head for the heavenly island of Bali to meet again my family for a fortnight before keeping on alone towards the island of Java and prolonging thrilling adventures in Indonesia.
As for Africa, continent of contrasts, smiles, generosity, endemic colours and hope, I know that's only a temporary goodbye. Its land, its forests, its villages are packed with so many things seemingly trivial and yet so fascinating. As soon as we put down a foot, we never completely leave again.

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